Though no longer Europe’s best-kept secret, Kotor’s sudden elevation to the tour-bus league has failed to dim the timeless delights of its maze of cobbled alleyways and secluded piazzas. Enclosing cafés and churches galore, the town walls are peered down upon by a series of hulking peaks. Down below, a harbour now bustling with sleek yachts marks the end of the Bay of Kotor, made fjord-like by the thousand-metre cliffs that rise almost vertically from the serene waters.
First colonized by the Greeks, Kotor came to prominence in the twelfth century, then passed through Serb, Austro-Hungarian and Bosnian hands before fifteenth-century Ottoman conquests forced it under the protective wing of Venice. Its period under Venetian rule ended in 1797, the shape of today’s Kotor having been laid out in the intervening years.
Kotor’s charms are best appreciated by heading to the Old Town, sans map, and getting lost in the maze of streets. You’ll likely enter through the Sea Gate, next to the harbour, and emerge onto the main square, Trg od Oružja. Cafés spill out from glorious buildings, the most notable of which are the old Rector’s Palace, and a leaning clock tower.
Burrow through the streets and before long you’ll end up at St Tryphon’s Cathedral, backed by a wall of mountains and perfect for photos; it’s well worth the entry fee for a peek inside. Elsewhere there are several churches worth looking at, as well as a fascinating Maritime Museum, a repository of nautical maps, and model ships.
The old fortress walls sit proudly above the town, and make for a rewarding climb. Allow at least ninety minutes for the round-trip to St Ivan’s Castle, from which you’ll have tremendous views of the fjord. On hot summer days it’s best to set off early or wait until evening, and note that the first building you come to, the Church of Our Lady of Health, is not even halfway up.